Morocco

We reached Algeciras with little time to spare. On the ferry we met a Moroccan rider, Moisés, who shared practical advice about the country and helped us feel more prepared for the trip ahead. Following his recommendation, we made Chefchaouen our first stop. The blue streets, narrow alleys, and quiet morning atmosphere made it an ideal place to begin. We spent a few hours walking around, taking in the views from above the town, and settling into the rhythm of the journey.

On the way south, we stopped for the night in Azrou. The hotel was basic and the night was not especially restful, but by morning we were ready to continue. After a short pause to recover from a minor health scare, we got back on the road.

We had been told more than once that the dunes near Merzouga were worth the detour, so we headed there. Before reaching town, we took a dirt track that shook the whole bike and opened into a wide, empty landscape. It felt remote and uncomplicated in the best way.

By late afternoon, the dunes came into view. We stayed nearby and walked out to watch the light change over the sand. It was one of the clearest memories of the trip and a strong contrast to the mountain roads and towns we had seen earlier.

Travelling without a fixed plan gave the trip a lot of flexibility, though it also meant we skipped places that might have been worth seeing. We passed through the Todra area, but rather than continue along one of the better-known routes, we turned back and took the R307 across the Atlas instead.

It was a rough mountain road, part broken tarmac and part track, recommended by another traveller we had met on the way. The higher we climbed, the colder and foggier it became. It was slower than expected, but far more memorable than a straightforward ride.

Marrakech was a complete change of pace. Arriving in the city traffic felt disorienting after the open landscapes of the south. Once we found the hotel and left the bike, the city became easier to take in on foot. That evening, we had dinner on a terrace and watched the movement of the square below.

At some point, we decided we wanted to reach the coast before heading back north. Essaouira felt like the right place to do that. We arrived looking for a campsite, but after some time searching and seeing the conditions, we chose to rent a room instead.

Later, we went down to the port and had dinner at a simple seafood restaurant. It was not a grand meal, just fresh food in a relaxed place, but it felt like the right stop after the intensity of Marrakech and the long inland stages.

From there, we continued to El Jadida and stayed at a campsite. Finding a good place for the tent took some effort, but the evening improved when we met another rider, Joss, who visited us a few weeks later in Madrid.

From El Jadida, we continued north to Tanger Med, crossed the Strait again, and rode back through Spain to Madrid.